Located in China's Shanxi Province, Pingyao is one of the most impressive surviving examples of traditional Chinese urban architecture. Walking through the old town, enclosed by historic walls, I was immediately struck by the unity of buildings dating from the Ming and Qing dynasties. Narrow streets, grey brick walls, wooden doors and traditional rooflines reveal an architectural world encountered less and less often in modern Chinese cities.
The key to understanding Pingyao's traditional houses is the courtyard. In the Chinese residential arrangement known as siheyuan, buildings stand around an inner courtyard enclosed on four sides. The courtyard is not merely an open space left at the centre of the house; it is the heart of family life and the element connecting its different sections. The position of rooms, orientation of entrances and number of courtyards reflect both climatic conditions and the traditional family structure.
Seen from the street, these houses are often concealed behind high, unadorned walls. Their limited connection with the outside world reflects the importance attached to family privacy. Entrances to traditional houses are generally placed at the southeastern corner. Yet entering through the gate does not lead directly into the main courtyard. A screen wall immediately behind the entrance prevents outsiders from seeing domestic life. In traditional belief, such walls were also thought to keep evil spirits from entering the house; they could be decorated with auspicious inscriptions and ornaments.
The number and size of courtyards also reflect the owner's economic and social position. A modest family's home might contain only one courtyard, while the residences of wealthy merchants and noble families could comprise a succession of courtyards, gardens and pavilions. Pingyao's historical importance as a commercial and financial centre helps explain the scale and architectural richness of some of its homes. The courtyards opening one after another could create an interior world far larger than anything suggested by the street façade.
Traditional Chinese family organization was also reflected in the placement of rooms. The principal building to the north of the courtyard, facing south and receiving more sunlight, was generally reserved for the head of the household or an elder family member. The eastern and western wings were occupied by other family members according to their position within the household. Areas receiving less sunlight could be used for services, kitchens or everyday work. The layout of the home therefore made visible not only the need for shelter but also the hierarchy of traditional family life.
Architectural details are equally striking. Carvings on wooden doors, roof eaves, decorative brickwork and windows overlooking the courtyards reveal the craftsmanship of local builders. While the outer façades tend to be relatively plain, the inner courtyards often display more elaborate ornamentation. This contrast is among the defining qualities of traditional Chinese homes: protected and restrained towards the outside world, but enriched within for family life.
Walking through Pingyao in June 2014, I was particularly impressed by the way this residential arrangement shaped the town as a whole. Successive high walls, traditional gateways and narrow streets concealed the inner life of the houses while creating a remarkably coherent urban fabric. Discovering the courtyards and architectural details behind the gates helped me understand not only what the buildings looked like, but also how they had once been lived in.
Today, Pingyao's traditional houses are more than examples of an old architectural style. They are historical documents showing how family relationships, social hierarchy, ideas of privacy and daily routines were expressed through space. Their courtyards, doors and walls have witnessed the lives of successive generations. Through my photographs, I have tried to preserve traces of the human life behind this architectural heritage.